Early in the morning we waked up our hosts Rodriguez to have our breakfast ( bread with butter and marmalade and coffee). Wild taxi drive took us from the empty streets of Lima to the crowded airport. This time I bargained price to 8.50 soles ($4) which is nominal if you don't request them to take you inside airport gates ( Afuera de la puerta !). Outskirts of city look depressing ...
We walked in the airport through a gate . Solders didn't even bother to check our passports - it was so obvious that we are traveling gringos.Then we elbowed our way to the Aiero Continente just to find out that all flights this morning have been delayed due the fog. The girl at the counter spent couple minutes explaining me that it would be a good idea to change our tickets to the first leaving flight.
I got confused, she explained it so enthusiastically in Spanish, as so as she just invented an airplane . Or maybe rater I was still virgin to Spanish way of saying things.
Anyway we changed our tickets and joined the crowd ofgringos and locales waiting for the first plane to take off.
Our German was there - his flight was late already for two hours and he was still sitting there with all his stuff . We never saw him again - I still wander if he got to see his lifetime dream... he seemed so lost in the airport ...
Aiero Continiente is a new and aggressive company and I love them (possibly because they gave free coffee and biscuits while we were waiting ) and we were airborn one of the first. The flight itself was great with nicevista of mountains on left side.
There was a couple sitting in front of closest windows. So, I don't know why, but everytime I tried to look outside window and see mountains they started hugging and kissing as if I would question their true love or try to steal it away..
Fast landing in Cuzco. We had kind of reservation with grandma Rodriguez to stay in her place in Zarumilla. As it turned out it was slightly off the center . It could be some 1.5 km away from the Plaza de Armas. In the time we arrived in Cuzco there was a big Cuzquena beer festival going on . Everybody warned us from ladrones or pick-pockets - they are very active in this time when everybody is drunk.
We got to the house - typical block house outside the touristy area and an old lady let us in. She told that girl living her is taking finals at the local university. She made us some Mate de Coca , left keys and wished a good stay.
Later we went out to do some sightseeing. I made a stupid mistake trying to navigate by using map and the sun for azimuth . It took a time for Maarja to convince me that in the Southern Hemisphere sun is not in the South at noon...
The architecture here in Cuzco is quite impressive -- especially all kinds of churches.
We passed a line of eateries - smelling real good . Not yet ...! Finally we reached main avenue which leads to Pza. de Armas. First real souvenir shops . Maarja wants it all ..! ...I succeed in convincing her to hold on at least for a while with major purchases.
Plaza de Armas is a great place. Now I understand why they compare this city with Katmandu - the same laid back atmosphere, beautiful mountain scenery in the background, centuries old culture with people naturally living in this setting and kind of different crowd of tourists. There are so many places in the world where one can see even older or fancier architecture, but except Nepal I haven't seen a place where people would live so harmonically inside this architecture .
Yeah , you have to pay for this - hostels are not cheap at all ! First of all -every single room is booked during beer festival. After wandering and exploring in the backstreets we stop at hostel " Felix" in end of Gringo Alley ( Procuradores ) Location is perfect, slight smell of marijuana in air....
The guy at the entrance ( the owner as it turns out later ) says s./ 15 (15 soles) for matrimonial , but nothing available this week . I had to deposit $10 and make reservation for when we get back form Inca Trail.
Maarja kind of dislike this deal and the place, since it was a "blind buy" - we didn't have a chance to see the rooms at all .
We stop and eat in the place we saw on the way to center. Inside there are only locals. They serve pork with big corn and play traditional music.
At the Tourist Information they delight me by saying that train leaves at 5 AM and tickets should be bought at 4 AM .
There, of course, is a lady which offers tickets right away , but then they would be not $16 but $20 . It was called " small commissions " and since I didn't like the lady, I didn't like her deal.
We had a hard time finding food for the trip. I still can't understand where locals buy their food and what do they eat at home ? No canned meat was sold in local shops and Ramen Noodles were sold only in gringo supermarket for $1 a piece . We made our own generic Ramen blend form local macaroons and Galdo de Carne -meat bullion. Our biggest purchase was a big wool blanket which was to be used as our second sleeping bag ( you could rent one for $3-5 per day, but buying a state of art blanket with Tumi figure for $30 seemed a way better deal )
When we get home, the girl is back - happy to be done with her finals.
Her name is Rossi , her major is Economy , ....... did I mention she looks nice ?
I remembered that we should get some gasoline for a stove. The local Shell station down the street fills up my Coke bottle . Gas goes for $2 per gallon . The guy at the pump says in English : " Take care .." which makes me wonder if he has been outside Peru to learn this expression ?
It is slightly chilly @ night .... the altitude makes a big difference.
Alarm clock and knock at the door wakes us up in the early morning. After quick breakfast we are out on a street. We start walking down the street in a hope to get come taxi. Soon it comes and we drive through spooky, empty streets . Market on the way looks criminal in this early morning.
Our train leaves an hour later than the regular public train. It's very cold, so we sat down in the terminal and guard our stuff. Some other gringos show up . When we finally board the train there are groups of German and English speaking tourists.
First I didn't understand weird behavior of the train as it moves, jerks , backs up and so on . Later someone explained me that the train was climbing a steep slope in zigzag pattern.
Nice views of cactuses and country life outside windows. Maarja is sleepy and I bother her by waking up and showing the cool views. Next to us there is a French couple , we chat about them in Russian, so they don't understand. Maarja likes the man. Some nice views of snowy mountains and then we reach our destination Km.88 .You cant't really miss it even if there is no station! We jump off in the last moment when train already starts to move. Some workers are repairing rails so I ask them where is the bridge . There is a group of English and three Germans ( oops ...they turned out to be Austrians later..) who have the same plans as we do.
Maarja was smart to take her WMU student card so she pays only $9 when I have to pay full entrance fee of $17. After crossing the bridge we turn left and follow the trail through the eucalypt forest. This is a first real touch with nature . In a few minutes we reach first ruins called Llactapata on the hillside. We are too lazy to climb up and explore them, since they seem to be a regular agricultural terraces with some housing.
At the Rio Cusichaca bridge we rest and take off clothes to get into the trail mode. We are getting first mosquito bites. The trail starts to climb gently. Maarja is doing great! I try to get in 45+15 min. go+rest mode and it seems to work for the first hours. We rest at the river, put our feet in cold water and enjoy clean mountain air. Life is good!
Germans one by one pass us while we are resting. We cross the bridge and soon reach the check-point (where they register our passport # and time ) There is a nice shade from the sun and one could buy Coke or beer.
Right next to check-point the Inca trail starts a steep climb along the side tributary Llulluchaof the main valley. This is finally a real Inca Trail. Nothing really impressive - just a regular trail in dirt.
We hear a noise of engine . That's weird - there are no roads ! A man is working with a chain-saw and cutting down eucalyptus. I smell leaves - yeah that's the real stuff.
Maarja starts loosing her breath . I try to teach her breathing correctly, but she doesn't trust me. So, we start to stop more often. Probably it's not a wise idea to gain too much altitude for the first day or tomorrow may be even worse. There are still some houses on the steep slope , we see cows and little kids playing.
I start to question the book description of the ThreeWhite Stones campsite. We pass the place where river is forking high above it and there is no sign of a campsite. Time is around 3 PM when we finally reach dirty, bumpy spot which could be called campsite. We are not really happy with the place.
I go across stream to see what's happening higher. Trail splits there , by following left it brings me to a small campsite with some horizontal spots.
So we call it a day and stay there. We try to collect some leaves and grass to put under tent ( we have no mats ). I think, I've never seen before most of the plants and try to guess which ones could be poisonous.
Then we proceed to cooking - tonight's special- macaroni with cheese and fish . Quite a combination , but it tastes good when you are hungry. Then we made Mate de Coca from the leaves we bought in the Cuzco market. As the sunset was coming we notice small birds flying in trees - colibri or humming-birds. Very different in size, color and I guess flowers they are feeding on . I tried to take pictures but it's hopeless - they are way too fast for my non-zoom camera and never stay in the same place for long. Some of them look more like big bees than birds.
When we are finally ready to go sleep the English group shows up. They look so exhausted that I give them our tea prepared for morning. They pitch up tents next to our. A local guy comes over from his house somewhere nearby and offers a horse for the pass tomorrow. We were in the tent, so I heard only part of the conversation. We hope that sleeping on the sleeping bag and covering with blanket should keep us warm enough.
We wake up at 6 AM make some semola for breakfast.
Oh, yeah ... in the night someone or something stole our tin can with fish .. even though I covered it with a good size stone. It means, there will be no more fish sandwiches for breakfast.
When we are almost ready to go, the English wake up and a local guy comes again. We don't really need a porter for our little stuff, so he gets only some coffee and a cigarette from us.
Trail still climbs, but now we are in nice cloud forest . After some 50 min. there is a perfect campsite , but that would have been to much for us yesterday. Maarja feels altitude and after struggling for a while gives me her backpack . Some big party with horses passes us . Finally, we reach a moraine terrace and can almost see Warmiwannusca or 'dead womens' pass. It's getting too crowdy on the trail , when we finally reach the pass everybody greets us with applauses . Maarja stays to rest , but I go to explore higher on the mountain with camera . The Warmiwannusca pass is at 4198 m , so, after adding some 300 m more my heart started to jump dangerously. Still, there is a nice look across the valley with Inca Trail waving it's way up to the next pass .
Trail changes it's appearance after pass - it becomes wider and is made out of series of cobblestone steps. I see some nice flowers growing on bare rocks.
When I got down back on pass , Maarja looks pale. A local man gives perfectly right advise - descend and rest. We start to climb down fast.
On the way I start talking with a German girl from the organized group - she is working for a travel agency somewhere in Quito, Ecuador. They are on organized trip which costs $50.
Sounds like a good deal - it covers trail entrance fee, food and they don't have to carry tents and rest of group equipment. Well, on the other hand - I prefer our independence .
There is no water on the slope till we reach almost very bottom of the Pacamayo river valley . We stop at a creek close to where there is a little waterfall.
Not everybody can live upstream .. but this time we don't complain about having priority of water use ... We stretch out our tent and sleeping stuff which is still moist from previous night and try to take a nap in the shade. Flies and mosquitoes doesn't really let us enjoy siesta. I prepare some lunch by opperating little MSR stove on a stone in the stream - it provides a little, cool hideaway form the hot sun in zenith. Today is Italian menu - macaroni with bullion and it tastes mighty good .
It could be 3.30 PM when we finally get back on the Inca trail. The trail goes down for a while , we are passing some tents and primitive buildings and then start to climb up the other bank of valley. We are the very last party on trail, so at least nobody bothers us . Maarja feels better and climbs fast. We reach the small ruins of Runturacay on the slope in less than 45 minutes. The ruins are small , but placed strategically and look impressive. We catch two last Argentinean guys from a group which left some half an hour before us. While taking photos of the ruins I find an empty bottle of Pisco ( De Los Reyes for record), which served us as an extra water bottle for the rest of trip.
There is a little lake below the next pass and the planned group is camping there. It's quite noisy and doesn't seem all so nice for us. We decided to climb higher , because book suggests that there should be another lake . I suppose it's right next to the pass. But after a short climb we notice it on our right and have to traverse back. It's a really nice - there are at least three good tent spots and one even laid with grass. Scenery from here is great and water in the lake seems O.K. for boiling. We notice a big bird -which looks like an eagle , but is too small for condor. That's a good sign and here our camp is to be!
I proceed on making dinner, but Maarja is sewing sides of our blanket together to create an improvised sleeping bag. Last night was cold even in the forest ...this night we are even higher . Our camp is at some 3900m and it could be cold at night.
The huge cloud streams across the opening of pass and fills the valley. It's getting dark . I watch the distant reddish blue, snowy mountain silhouettes and stars. While smoking the last cigarette I try to imagine groups of Inca indians traveling this way with guards at fortresses and cities instead of ruins . I'd bet they didn't sleep in tents if here were so many " hotels " on the way.
I start singing El Condor pasa..
while walking back to our tent .
June 11., Inca Trail
We wake up before the sun rises over mountains. I start making breakfast, but Maarja is still in tent when the sun suddenly and magically jumps out from beyond the mountains. Maarja is being pulled out with all the sleeping bag to see this dramatic scene. This is a great morning with clear sky and crisp air.
The pass is so close that we might say were sleeping there. The vegetation on the other side is richer. Maarja is feeling great and carries her own backpack . There are nice ruins of a Sayacmarca city on the slope, but again we are too lazy to climb up and explore them . For me it's quite enough to see them from outside and distance . Down below there is a campsite where we see our three Germans leaving it.
Water down there in the stream seems O.K. , but we saw a green pond where it was originating... So we pass by without filling up our water bottles. ...There are some recently uncovered ruins right next to the trail . The jungle vegetation could probably hide about anything in couple years !
The trail itself is a Hi-Tech construction balancing on cliffs and crossing swamps. Maarja feels so good that we switch backpacks, and she is still moving good .
We catch the Germans resting for breakfast. They think about entering Machu Picchu tomorrow . Actually we also have to start planing our next days .
Vegetation is very rich here - like in the rain forests , only highest level of trees is absent . Trail is carved in a bedrock in some places . I look at huge quartz veins in the diorite. I've seen similar ones in Siberia being a source for rich placer gold deposits. That's probably where Inca's gold is coming from ..
Trail is gently climbing higher closer to the top of ridge and away from any water . I start to worry , because we have almost no water with us and there are no streams so high . I once even try to follow down the gorge to what sounds like water , but soon have to turn back because of the thick jungle vegetation . The moss seem to suck up all the water and grows couple feet thick- feeling is almost like walking in a swamp .
Incas built a real tunnel in the steep section of cliff . It seems like they used layer discordance at a fault and removed some of them . Anyway , it's quite impressive .
It's getting really hot in the sun. We finally reach the pass when it's almost noon . There is a first magnificent look on some impressive Inca structures on the slope down closer to Urubamba river . Line of ceremonial bathtubs flowing water in the Phuyupatamarca is right below us. We climb as high as possible above bathes and fill our bottles with water.
There is another control "guest book" at these ruins . One of the houses there is restored and used for living of a park ranger. The guy is very friendly and we chat with him for a while . He is a psychiatrist in a city and here he spends vacations working and having a good time. He asks if Maarja is my wife , which starts series of jokes about esposos between us later . We leave the nice man as there are more tourists coming down the trail . He said in some days there are more than hundred people passing on the Inca Trail.
From there the steep steps dive down the mountain . Phuyupatamarca looks like a castle from below. We hear noise of the falling water on our right but trail follows left . Soon we reach a creek running across the trail. It seems like nobody is living upstream.. so we define water as clean and good for drinking (since we have no purification tablets with us). We stay here for siesta , napping right on trail, because it's literally carved in steep slope. I try doing some laundry , but things wouldn't dry . It's hot , but humid and there's no wind at all . Germans stop to chat with us and then continue down to hostel at the power plant . They want to get in the Machu Picchu by the sunrise tomorrow .
We, on the other hand, have no reason to rush and want to stay in mountains as long as possible .
The big planned group finally caches us and so we say "Hi", "Hello" or "Hola" for some twenty times ...
We decided to move, since there is no place to camp anyway . Yeah , the ranger guy at the previous ruins said that hostel is the last place one can camp in tent - beyond that point it's forbidden and there is a big fine . So, we have to stay on this side of hostel. After some minutes of walk we reach pylons of electrical line coming from the hydropower plant damb down below . Trail here is turned away from original Inca one and lead's all thirsty and hungry tourists to hostel down there ( $5 per pers... I was told).
From this small spot there is magnificent view at Urubamba river down, and all the mountains . If you look carefully it's possible to see trail continuing on the steep slope of mountain . Machu Picchu is still hidden by mountain in the river bend. This is a perfect spot to see some impressive agricultural terraces on the slope . They somehow remind me space movies . So big and unrelated to this green jungle around. The "panorama" grass spot is flat and big enough just for one tent. After a while we decide not to go to civilization in hostel , but instead stay here. The only disadvantage is absence of water , but we survived that and had a wonderful time . We could see people walking down in the hostel and trains passing down in the valley from our high spot which was like an eagle's nest .When the night came clouds gathered and it seemed that we gonna get some rain and storm, but it didn't happen .
June 12. , Macchu - Picchu.
We waked up as the sun was rising , but didn't get up . We had an idea of just spending the day hanging out on this side of mountains without entering the Machu Picchu. As we were preparing breakfast from remains of water, the forestry man climbed up from hostel . He said this is the very last place on trail someone could camp legally . We were lucky ! Next would be only the dirty hostel's campsite.
And that's not what we want ... We talked about life and I asked him also about other big ruin-site mentioned in book as Maranpampa . After a misunderstanding caused by different names he told us that there is a long ,high wall in the jungle and some other ruins which have been discovered just recently . We would have to cross the river and walk some 5 km downstream along railway.
This gave us some idea what to do with our extra day we have . We had a smoke with man and said Ciao to each other .
We started to climb down the steep dirt trail , which was so obviously not the creation of Incas ... Hostel was a nice place , but traditionally smelled of urine ( at least outside) . We have made the right decision to stay on the trail .. However, drinking Coke again was an enjoyable experience .
At the hostel trail to right goes to Huinnay Huayna ruins We were not so sure about turning of the main trail . But when we got there after 5 min. the view was gorgeous. Green cloud forest surrounds the terraces and buildings on slope next to waterfall . Across the river there are snow covered peaks of mountains . Looks like heaven to me . Some people translate the Quechua name as ' forever young ' which seems quite appropriate.
I try to understand why Incas built their irrigation system as series of bathtubs. It might have given them chance to warm up water in the sun and actually take a bath in lower ones ... The fascinating thing is it still works after all those centuries when people who created this are long gone . Maarja found beautiful flowers and wild strawberries . We washed ourselves ( while fighting with mosquitos) and filled up our water bottles . Beautiful place and no tourists !
I still was wondering where exactly is Machu Picchu ... we couldn't see it from our previous camp. It took us more than an hour to get from here to Intipunku . The trail was traversing the steep mountain face which seemed to be impossible, when I observed it from above . Perfect engineering , but in some places time has eroded it and it's better to watch your steps or one might end up couple hundred meters below.
Intipunku serves as a gate to Macchu Picchu settlement . From here we could see the city itself . Quite impressive, but touristy with hundreds of people roaming around and buses crawling up the road ...
Man at Intipunku didn't check our tickets - just asked if we have them .
Then there was a 20 min. walk along something like huge paved pathway to the city. On the way there were some ritual stones where we took some photos before entering in city .
Nobody asked us to leave our backpacks so we took them with us, climbed on the highest level , sat down and watched over the ruins . 
It was a nice sunny day and someone was playing Peruvian tunes on samponnas . Quite an harmony -it's a really nice place - Incas were smart in choosing location for city . Quality of stone work is impressive - mostly everywhere it's diorite or quartz diorite . Surfaces are smooth so they used some advanced tools to work on the stones .
We went to the gate as "responsible people" to leave our packs and get charged s./1 per piece . We met one of the German guys sitting in the shadow . It was like to see a familiar face in a crowd . We started to talk - he's been the first one here when the sun was just rising and no tourists around . ..and they were from Austria not Germany .. He climbed Mt. Huayna Picchu at the back of the ruins with no water and felt dizzy when finally got down . I was getting bored of seeing stones so close and we decided to climb the mountain . Maarja already feels at home in mountains and has learned how to breath correctly - so we were the fastest ones to climb and it took us less than 1 hour to reach the top. It's astonishing how Incas managed to create terraces even on this lonesome mountain top . There are caves where one could live and if one have water it's a fortress nobody could climb
There were quite a few people on the top enjoying the view sitting on huge cliff . We didn't stay there too long , just to get a glance of this beauty and then descend. I noticed that there is a nice campground down at the Urubamba river - must be the one described in the book. When we got down in the ruins it was almost 3 PM and most of tourists were leaving. All the climb took us less than 2 hours .
After drinking couple extraordinary expensive Pepsi we saved s./ 5 each and walked down instead of taking the bus . This ain't no Inca trail - just a steep, small trail and balance exercise for 40 minutes .
We got down to Punta Ruinas village and market at the railway station . It was like a Wild West civilization in the center of peaceful nature. Luckily it only lasts till the last train leaves .
I ended up buying big Coke for s./ 4 ($2) and started conversation with a local grandma . She was really kind to us and gave us each mandarina . Then I bought some canned fish and bread from her . That was really sweet, old lady .
We headed down to the campground . It's a nice open space with the basic toilet and shower facilities. There were already couple tents when we arrived so we put ours closer to the river . It was a mistake since the only light giving break from ladrones is at the bathroom building . So, we had to move our tent when it got dark . Washing in the Urubamba river didn't seem a good idea ... they dump all the waste in there. Maarja made nice sandwiches and then we called it a day . A very good one .
June 13., Looking for Maranpampa
The man collecting s./ 10 from each tent waked us up at 6 AM in the morning . We didn't feel like getting up so early and were sleeping for another couple hours . When we finally got up everybody else was gone . We left our backpacks in the old lady's restaurant Sandy and started walk along the trails out of village. The lady said we should go till we reach small tienda and Alfonso will be there . I didn't have a clue , but it sounded like we can't miss it ... I mean Alfonso.
So, after some 15 min. we reached a small house next to the railway which could be called tienda and there was Alfonso sitting in his wheelchair and his son laying on the floor ....
We greeted him and I helped to get his son back on a chair . Alfonso was saying something, but I couldn't get most of that because of his careless accent. But I got the main thing Maranpampa is the name of a mountain across the rails and the trail starts here . His son was mentally deficient and I guess was "high" on something ...
We climbed in his pasture and followed the trail . Trail ended at the house with dogs and two little girls . They sad mami is not home , but also Sendero es por aqi which means trail goes here . This trail was going in the real jungle . Just now I realized that it must have been quite an effort for park people to maintain Inca Trail clean from jungle . It's beautiful and scary at the same time . Trail becomes weaker and weaker , finally we reach a beautiful waterfall and trail disappears . We try to climb some steep rock faces and fight our way through the jungle but soon have to give it up . It's getting clear that we are not on the right way if there is one . I have this stupid idea that we could easily step on some dangerous snake or something ... So we give it up and return . We stop at the river on the way back and find some wild pumpkins - which are quite tasty . Real time adventure in jungle
As we returned, Alfonso had his neighbor visiting him . We stopped to talk with them . The neighbor didn't have all toes on legs and was chewing coca all the time . I offered them cigarettes and while smoking they showed me their new coffee bean crop drying in the sun on patio . They have very rich soil , but somehow all people are poor .
As we were walking back to Puente Ruinas there was a surprise attack by a fast locomotive appearing out of nowhere . We bought our tickets for s./ 16 back to Cuzco . The option is to pay s./ 10 , but then you get sin asientos - no assigned seats . Since 4 hour ride with no seats didn't seem a good deal we paid it all .
I started to talk with neighbors on the train . They were both Peruvians but visited Machu Picchu for the first time in their life . We were talking about life and they said that regular salary in city is $300 - $400per month. They both believe in Peru politics and like their Japanese president - Fujimori .
Cuzco night lights are impressive as the city is in bowl when we approach. Streets are full of people even after dark, especially in Plaza de Armas. The first room they showed us at our "Felix"was terrible . I asked for a different one and we got a decent one with a look to patio Actually this one was a really nice colonial style room with a big bed and wooden window covers . The shower even sometimes worked so it's perfect!
We went out to eat dinner in a gooood place. Our choice was a place on Procuradores . The food was great and we topped it all with " Pisco Sour " . Some old man came in and started to play terrible tunes on samponnas , I guess people pay him to go away . A nice local girl gave us invitations to some play somewhere. But we felt quite tired and went back to our nice castle .
This day was to be dedicated for shopping . We started with a market close to the train station. That was a big and reminded me days when I was working in a one like that . We bought some mandarinas and I started to buy food stuff for my mountain trip . We both bought nice Peruvian huts.
I tried to call to Lima and talk with someone in LHS , but that stupid machine just kept on swallowing soles without letting me hear it all . We had to confirm our flights back and they changed mine to 22nd . I was pissed off , since we spent s./ 6 on this phone and still didn't get all the information we need.
Then they started a huge festival and parade on streets and I couldn't talk any longer in this noise . Festival was called Corpus Christi and apparently is an important one. They were carrying beautiful statues of Jesus Christ and all the saints and seemed to have a really good time . Little kids were dancing in the streets . We went back to the Pza. de Armas and watched parade - it was just like all the people came out in the streets for party . Thousands of locales were there to watch it and take part . It seems that many campesinos arrived in town just for this parade all dressed up in their traditional costumes .
After the parade was over, they set up long tables along the sides of the streets and sold food . There were many nice things out there .. We were just watching , but everyone else was eating, drinking and having fun .
One of specialties was some kind of roasted rat...as for us it seemed terrible, but later I met some people who actually tasted it. They said it's delicious till you don't know what you are eating..
Later we went shopping since Maarja wanted mochilla which is a little leather backpack . The best bargain was s./ 80 per piece . They look great and I bought one for my girlfriend home.
We suddenly discovered that we are getting short on money . So, in order to save some we decided to eat cheap in our own hotel . Today's special - menu included soup, bread, rice with fish and desert . Imagine that all for only s./ 2.5 . Everything tasted great, but later we found a mysterious note in our room . It was written in English and suggested ...not to eat in hotel , but instead use some other place
